Is it just me or have we all fallen through the rabbit hole to feudal Russia? Fur was everywhere on the Autumn Winter Milan Menswear runways for 2010. Gone are the gloomy shunning if of all things luxury of AW 2009. Come next fall the world's most sartorial minded men will be warm and toasty whether they prefer the slouchy darkness of Rick Owens or the tailored more classic Italian Gianfranco Ferre. 
The king of the goths Rick Owens was true to form for winter. Owens showed slouchy yet structured pieces with touches of leather and fur. Interestingly the collection had touches of Owen's S/S 2010 RTW Women's line--especially in the long triangular pieces of cloth hanging languidly from the front of outfits. The standout pieces came in the middle and the end. The fur pieces were well layered and luxurious while still remaining distinctly Rick Owens. The truly spectacular pieces came at the end of the show in the form of beautifully crafted cloud-like scarves hung long around the necks demanding complete attention.
Gianfranco Ferre gave a furry outlook that was quite different. The house of impeccable Italian tailoring showed fur in a much sexier luxurious light. The Italian house took a step away from their very typical classic Italian dapper sexy look and more towards a more dangerous (yet still highly sexualized) futuristic street wear. The collection featured stunning leather chest plates that truly made a statement against light grey checked suits. Fur was placed almost secretly in places in shawls under longer coats, a vest under a suit, or in full floor sweeping view as a jacket liner. Ferre continued the 2009 trend of belting men's coats as a good half of the jackets in the show featured casually tied leather straps. The trend which really took root last season is best done has been done here and by Kris Van at Dior Homme where it is still presented as highly masculine and not as a waist cinching instrument (as it is in womenswear). Overall the collection is a step in a far more innovative direction from many of the houses' previous attempts, especially following Ferre's 2007 death.
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