Color Me Fall: A/W 2010 Features--COLORS!

While a great majority of fashion's great designers still showed an aggregate majority of grays and blacks, standout collections from Proenza Schouler, Peter Som, and Phillip Lim showed color is the word for autumn/winter 2010.

Proenza Schouler continued in moderation the bold prints they showed for Spring 2010, but with a winter update.  The collection began with a barrage of somber looking models painted with scarlet lips, pale foundation, and sheathed in dark plaids, blacks, greens, and fur.  Perhaps one of the most impressive parts of the beginning of the collection was the excess of wearable well designed outwear.  From updated toggle coats to a line of peacoats lined in dark black, navy, and green fur ending in a cheeky update of a fur trimmed letter jacket.  The collection moved into black and white prints splashed with bold splashes of blue , royal purple, and green.  Standount babydoll dresses bring to mind a dark moody tragically chic schoolgirl at University PS.  In total the collection was a continuing evolution of Jack and Lazaro's distinct aesthetic that has shot them to stardom.

Phillip Lim was one of a handful of designers who took the first tentative step out of the 80s and back into a more sophisticated decade--the late 70s.  Yet, unlike many of his compatriots Lim, as he usually does, was careful to make sure his designs were reinterpretations and inspirations of that great decade when disco rose and fell.  Lim's collection featured roomy pants very reminiscent of a Lauren Hutton in her prime.  The collection ended in a flourish of purple dresses that would fit right in on the floors of Studio 54.

Peter Som, how to begin.  Over the last decade Peter Som was a part of the young crop of designers that took the industry by storm.  Yet, it must be admitted that perhaps in the last few years Som's name has been overshadowed if only ever so slightly by other phenoms like Wang, Lim, and Wu--not anymore.  Som's A/W 2010 collection was the toast of New York.  The collection was a psychedelic trip through a winter that is nothing if not incredibly fun.  Som came out of the gate very cautiously with a fur coat showing signs of what the collection was to contain--the coat was lined with a wild green print while the blouse, skirt prints were incredibly complimentary.

On a side note, I apologize for me 2 week late posting on fashion week.  I recently started my first two internships both in fashion.  I'm not going to class and working internships 5 days a week.  I'm absolutely loving both!



All images copyright New York Magazine

I Know What Boys Want! FUR at Milan/Paris Menswear A/W 2010

Is it just me or have we all fallen through the rabbit hole to feudal Russia?  Fur was everywhere on the Autumn Winter Milan Menswear runways for 2010.  Gone are the gloomy shunning if of all things luxury of AW 2009.  Come next fall the world's most sartorial minded men will be warm and toasty whether they prefer the slouchy darkness of Rick Owens or the tailored more classic Italian Gianfranco Ferre.



The king of the goths Rick Owens was true to form for winter.  Owens showed slouchy yet structured pieces with touches of leather and fur.  Interestingly the collection had touches of Owen's S/S 2010 RTW Women's line--especially in the long triangular pieces of cloth hanging languidly from the front of outfits.  The standout pieces came in the middle and the end.  The fur pieces were well layered and luxurious while still remaining distinctly Rick Owens.  The truly spectacular pieces came at the end of the show in the form of beautifully crafted cloud-like scarves hung long around the necks demanding complete attention.

 Gianfranco Ferre gave a furry outlook that was quite different.  The house of impeccable Italian tailoring showed fur in a much sexier luxurious light.  The Italian house took a step away from their very typical classic Italian dapper sexy look and more towards a more dangerous (yet still highly sexualized) futuristic street wear.  The collection featured stunning leather chest plates that truly made a statement against light grey checked suits.  Fur was placed almost secretly in places in shawls under longer coats, a vest under a suit, or in full floor sweeping view as a jacket liner.  Ferre continued the 2009 trend of belting men's coats as a good half of the jackets in the show featured casually tied leather straps.  The trend which really took root last season is best done has been done here and by Kris Van at Dior Homme where it is still presented as highly masculine and not as a waist cinching instrument (as it is in womenswear).  Overall the collection is a step in a far more innovative direction from many of the houses' previous attempts, especially following Ferre's 2007 death.